Understanding the Off-Peak Car scheme

The OPC (Off-Peak Car) scheme was introduced by the Singapore government to curb the amount of vehicles on the road during peak hours. For newly registered cars, there is an attractive upfront rebate of S$17,000 off the COE (Certificate of Entitlement) and ARF (Additional Registration Fee) in exchange for the reduced usage. There is also a S$800 discount per year from the normal car road tax, subject to a minimum road tax payment of S$50 a year. An OPC is marked by a red car plate to separate them from normal cars.

In the event that you wish to convert the OPC to a normal car, you would have to pay the government a pro-rated refund on the OPC rebate based on the number of years of COE left for the car.

Usage of OPC during restricted hours

A supplementary license has to be purchased for usage of OPC during restricted hours. The supplementary license can be bought during office hours from the following places:

- Automobile Association Of Singapore (Tel: 6333 8811)
• 336 River Valley Road
• 2 Kung Chong Road
- Any Singapore Post offices
• List of Singpost branches
- Land Transport Authority office (Tel: 1800 2255582)
• 10 Sin Ming Drive

Failure to display or usage of invalid supplementary license during restricted hours is a serious offence. Offenders can be fined up to S$20,000 and/or imprisoned up to 12 months.

New car collection checklist

Collecting your new car soon? A car has thousands of components, and it will be impossible to check that all are in order. However, checking the important parts is essential for safety and ensures that you are not being short-changed.

The below guide serves as a checklist for you to examine your new vehicle.

* Download it here and bring it for your new car collection.


Do make sure that all the keys and remote controls are working. A key could cost up to $400 to replace. Locks

Keyless Entry (Lock and unlock using remote)
Manual Entry (Lock and unlock using key)
Master Lock
Individual Lock
Alarm
Alarm reset switch

Windows

Power Windows(Check that the driver side auto window is working)
Windows control Lock

Electric Mirrors

Electric Mirrors Control ( Up, Down, Left & Right )
Folding Mirrors(Check that the Mirrors can be retractable by either manual or electrical folding.)

Console

Engine Start Button (if any)
Air-Conditioning
Fan Speeds
Rear Demister
Radio/CD/DVD Player
Reverse Camera (if any)
Steering controls (if any)

Switches

Headlights
Directional Signals
High Beam
Hazard Lights
Parking Lights
Tail Lights
Brake Lights
Fog Lamps
Interior light
Wiper (Make sure each speed is correct)
Wiper Spray
Horn

Dashboard

Dashboard lights come on when headlights are on
Information lights (eg. Parking brake ) are lit at relevant time
Check that odometer does not display excessive mileage

Transmission & Brakes

Smooth Gearshift
Automatic transmission
Over Drive button
Shift Lock button
Footbrake
Handbrake

Things to look out for:
Test auto-transmission for shock while engaging gear.
Make sure that the brake has to be depressed to shift out of Park mode.
Make sure that the car can only start in Neutral or Park mode.

Other Interiors

Steering wheel properly aligned
Steering wheel adjusting lever
Bonnet release lever
Boot release lever
Fuel tank release lever
Check for stains and holes on seats
Seat adjuster (Forward, backward, recline)
Seat belts (Check that the Seat belts lock when pulled hard)
Seat belts height adjuster
Check for scratches and dents on the trims
Rear Mirror
Glove box
Check for stains on carpets
Air-con vents (Check that they are able to move freely)
Speakers
Moonroof (Opens and closes fully)

Exterior

Check that car plate is correct
Check that body surface is free from dents and scratches.
Check that windows and windscreens are free from stains and scratches
Check that lights are clear and undamaged
Check that door handles are working
Check that tyres are free from holes and punctures
Check that rims are free from scratches
Check that the radio antenna is working
Check that fuel cap is secured

Under The Bonnet

Engine Oil level
Brake Fluid level
Battery Water level
Transmission Fluid level
Coolant level
Air-Conditioning gas level
Check engine compartment with any obvious defects and damage

Inside the Boot

Base board
Boot light
Tool kit
Spare tyre

Documentation

Road Tax Disc
Vehicle log card
Certificate of insurance
Car owner manual

Miscellaneous

Check tyres pressure
Cruise control (if any)
All goodies promised are given

12 ways to save petrol and money

The price of petrol has always been climbing upwards. Instead of complaining about the increase in cost of petrol, let's see how can you cut down on petrol costs. Choosing the right type of petrol is a good start! As a general rule of thumb, you should always flip through your vehicle owner's manual and choose the lowest recommended grade of petrol required. Contrary to popular belif, higher grades of petrol actually does nothing to improve the performance of your car.

In addition, below are 12 good driving tips for saving fuel. Read them carefully, and you will probably save a pile on your next petrol bill.

1. Pump up your tyres
Keeping your tyres inflated is one of the easiest and essential way to reduce petrol usage. Saving petrol = saving money. Thus, your should try to improve your fuel economy.

If a range is recommended by the manufacturer, the higher pressure should be used to maximize fuel efficiency. Deflated tyres run hot and jeopardize safety. It will cause the tyres to wear out prematurely, affect the vehicles adversely. It also decrease the fuel economy by increasing the rolling resistance.

Tyres lose about one psi pressure per month due to air loss caused by the tyre hitting holes, bumps and kerbs. There is thus a need to check tyres at least once a month. A tyre deflated by two psi will result in a one per cent increase in fuel consumption.

2. Drive at a moderate speed
Avoid speeding on open roads. Driving at the acceptable speed limit is safer and increases the fuel economy. As for highway driving, over 50% of the power produced by the engine is used to overcome aerodynamic drag. For this reason, fuel consumption increases rapidly at speeds above 90km/h. On an average, a car uses about 15% more fuel at 100km/h, and 25% more fuel at 110km/h as compared to when it is cruising at 90km/h.

However, this should not lead one to conclude that the lower the speed, the better the fuel economy. The fuel consumption of an average car increases sharply at any speed below 50km/h.

3. Clean the air filter regularly
Clogged air filters increase fuel consumption by restricting airflow to the engine. It should be cleaned/replaced when necessary. Clogged air filters can increase fuel consumption by up to 10 per cent.

4. Use thinner tyres
Tyres with thick width will improve the handling of your car. On the flip side, it will also increase your car’s fuel consumption. Thicker tyres mean more rolling resistance, and naturally higher fuel consumption.

5. Start up the car properly
Cars these days do not require you to prime the engine by pumping the accelerator pedal repeatedly before starting. Such an action wastes fuel, so avoid doing it. When starting the engine, idle it for no more than 30 seconds to warm it up. An engine will warm up faster on the road. However, avoid sudden acceleration before the engine has warmed up sufficiently.

6. Drive in high gear (Overdrive)
The engine runs most efficiently between around 1,500 and 2,500 rpm. To maintain low engine revolutions, you should increase through the gears as soon as possible and before the revolution reach 2500 rpm.

For automatic transmission cars, you should always switch on your overdrive to help save fuel. Overdrive will allow your engine to change gears at lower revolutions. It also puts your transmission into an "economy" mode. It engages the final "overdrive" gear when cruising to keep the rpms extra low, thereby increasing fuel economy.

7. Travel light
Avoid carrying any unnecessary weight in your car. On the average, every 50kg added load in your car will increase fuel consumption by two per cent.

8. Anticipate traffic ahead
A driver can reduce fuel consumption by up to 10 per cent if he does not brake or accelerate unnecessarily. Anticipate traffic conditions ahead, adjust your speed accordingly and avoid tailgating. Accelerations and decelerations waste fuel. Braking and abrupt stops can be minimized by not following too closely and slowing down gradually when approaching a red light.

It takes up to six times as much fuel to move a car from a dead stop than it does for one moving at just a few km/h.

9. Avoid strong acceleration
The fuel consumption remains at a minimum when driving steadily at a moderate speed of about 90km/h. Bear in mind that every time the accelerator is depressed, the engine goes into a “fuel-enrichment” mode which wastes fuel.

The vehicle should always be gradually and smoothly accelerated. Using cruise control on highways can help maintain a constant speed and reduce fuel consumption.

10. Minimise aerodynamic drag
Additional parts on the exterior of a vehicle such as roof racks and spoilers, or having the window open, increases aerodynamic drag.

11. Don't let your engine idle
Minimize fuel wastage when idling by stopping the engine whenever your car is stationary or held up for an extended period of time.

Idling for more than a minute consumes much more fuel than restarting an engine. By having the engine switched off, you will save more fuel than that you lose from the burst of fuel involved in restarting the engine. The net increased wear and tear from this practice is negligible.

12. Use the air-con sparingly
Air conditioners can use about 10 per cent more fuel when operating. However, if you are driving at more than 80 km/h, using the air condition is better for fuel economy than an open window.

15 ways to pimp your ride

Considering the amount you are paying to own a car in Singapore, you may be thinking of spending a little more to make it stand out from the rest. Here are 15 ways to improve your ride:

1. Exhaust


The bigger the better" theory does not work for exhaust pipes. Oversizing of exhaust may result in power loss. The installation of a high performance exhaust system will boost the power of your car. Aftermarket high performance exhaust systems provides a quicker and more efficient path for the exhaust gases to escape.

This means that the burnt fuel and air leave the combustion chambers at a faster rate. New fuel and air can then enter and burn in the chamber to create more power.

Apart from improving your performance, many aftermarket systems enhance the appearance of your car. The larger exhaust tips and polished mufflers makes the car look more aggressive. However, you may attract unwanted attention from the Traffic Police as many of the aftermarket high performance exhaust systems generate aggressive and loud noises. Please do make sure your installations are LTA-compliant.

2. Brakes

Say, you want to modify your car to improve the power output? You should know that the factory-fitted brakes (stock brakes) might not be able to handle the additional speed if it has exceeded the original design specifications. This can pose a threat to you and other road users.

Aftermarket brakes have better stopping power, thus decreasing the brake distance. In this way, you can improve the timing of your car through the corners as you can brake later into the corners. Besides, aftermarket brakes are more resistant to fade. Fade takes place when the brake fluid boils because the brakes are too hot. This results in a soft brake pedal and less responsive brakes, which can be dangerous.

Aftermarket brakes improves the image of your car as it looks better and fill the space behind the spokes of your sport rims.

It is not recommended to replace individual components of the brake system individually. For example, you replace your stock pads with racing pads, but not the rotors. Components function together. The stock rotors may not be able to take the additional heat generated by the racing pads. It is not worth endangering your life because you want to save on the cost of racing pads for your rotors.

3. Tyres

Performance tyres enhance the handling, grip and cornering capability of your car. They are able to sustain a higher maximum speed. If you have extra cash and do not mind a short tread life, you can consider the ultra-high performance tyres. They offer the best braking and handling for both wet and dry condition. They are made of soft rubber and provide unparalleled grip. The rule of thumb is - the softer your tyres, the better the grip, but the shorter the life-span.

Do a wheel alignment after the tyres are mounted on the vehicle. This is because the tyres may not be perfectly aligned to the direction of travel, which can affect the handling characteristics and the fuel consumption.

4. Suspension

A firmer suspension system enhances the car stability, reduces bodyroll and allows for a quicker turn. The handling performance of the car is boosted. Lowering a car gives the car a dynamic and sporty persona too.

Invest in a good set of performance lowering springs to improve the handling performance of the car. Aftermarket springs lower the centre of gravity, hence reducing bodyroll during cornering. Bodyroll is when the centre of gravity shifts away from the direction of the corner during cornering. Performance springs are much stiffer. They also tighten up the suspension.
Stock shock adsorber are designed for comfort. Aftermarket performance shock adsorber tightens up the suspension and improves the handling of the car.

The suspension upgrade causes additional stress to the car chassis, resulting in chassis flex. Strut bars can be installed to help reduce chassis flex and mitigate steering response in performance cars. It also enhances the appearance of your engine bay.


Alloy sports rims are typically made out of aluminium, which is much lighter than steel 5. Sports rims

Sports rims do not just perk up the superficial outlook of a car, it actually does multiply its performance. At a high speed, a car is more stable if it uses slightly wider rims. Wider rims stretches soft compound tyres, making it lower, wider and firmer.

Most sports rims are manufactured by casting; pouring of the molten metal into the mould. Casted rims are much cheaper than forged rims due to the manufacturing process. Forged rims are lighter. The lighter rims magnify the handling performance of the car as it works better with the suspension. Lighter rims work well during acceleration too.

6. Headlights

It is illegal to install aftermarket HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamp if your vehicle is not factory fitted with HID lamps. HID lamps are marked by brighter and whiter light. However, you may replace the existing headlight with white headlight bulb which emits a white light.

You should make sure that the bulb is of the same wattage as the original, because a higher wattage may increase the risk of fire. Always check whether the bulb is approved by LTA before installation.

7. Bodykits

Bodykits amplify the exterior appearance of your car, separating your car from others of the same model. Bodykits typically comprise of the front bumper, side skirts, diffuser and spoilers. Most bodykits are made using Poly-Urethane which is a rubber-like material. Poly-Urethane is chosen because it is more resistant to damage and relatively cheaper.

The Vortex diffuser is getting more popular among cars on the road. Apart from beautifying your car, it channels airs more smoothly over the car during high speed.

8. Spray Painting

Can’t seem to rid of unsightly dents and scratches no matter how hard you polish? Perhaps it is time to send your car to a spray painting workshop. Most spray painting workshops do dent removal. The new coat of gloss from the re-spraying will give your car a shiny finish. Do note that professional spray painting can be quite costly, with price starting from around S$1,000. You should check with the workshop on the paint used for spray painting. It is recommended that you choose quality paints like 2K Dupont paint.

9. Solar film

Solar film eases the load on the air conditioner by reducing heat from the sun and controlling light transmission. It aids in reducing the exposure of the harmful ultraviolet rays and infrared rays from the sun. Ultraviolet rays also causes fading of fabrics and furnishing. Darker tinted films are available to tackle this problem. They also add a sporty touch to your car.

10. DVD player

Are your children sick of playing chess during long road trips? Maybe it is time to fit a DVD player in your car. Most of the DVD players come with a LCD screen and have features like Dolby Digital or DTS surround sound capabilities which work well with the multi-speaker set-up in most car. If you prefer local television, Digital TV tuner allows you to tune-in to channels like Channel News Asia. It is recommended to install the LCD screen at the back of the car, so that the driver will not be distracted.


Using GPS to navigate is free. You only have to pay for the GPS set and software. 11. GPS navigation system

Need help getting around Singapore? With GPS navigation system, you will never get lost again. The GPS navigation system displays the map of the area and guides the driver to his destination with real-time routing and positioning. Apart from LCD display, most navigation system have a voice guidance feature. The driver no longer have to steal glimpses at the display screen for instructions and can fully concentrate on driving.

12. In-car entertainment system

Have you ever increase the volume of your sound system then immediately tune it lower because it was rather unpleasant to your ears? That is a sign to upgrade your sound system to a better one. A factory car sound system typically consists of a stereo unit and speakers.

You may choose to install a higher quality tweeters which offer brighter sound and overall clarity. Thereafter, you can search for better aftermarket speakers. It is recommended that you choose speakers with a higher efficiency rating. Otherwise, they can sound distorted when underpowered. If you are looking at better performance, you can install an amplifier which brings out the best in higher quality aftermarket speakers.

There are many aftermarket car stereo units available, from the simple traditional unit to flashy units with bright displays. The latter are more for aesthetic purposes.

13. Upholstery

Switching to leather upholstery gives the interior of your car luxurious touch. In addition, leather seats do not smell and is permeable. On the other hand, PVC seats are not “breathable”. That is why you feel warm and sweaty when you sit on them for a long period of time.

Cubic and walnut trimming for the car interior improves the look of your car. Carbon fibre lamination gives it a racy feel. High quality trimming are generally resistant to scratch and smell.

Higher quality car mats trap dirt well. It makes cleaning easy and provides extra comfort.

14. Car accessories

There are a wide variety of aftermarket accessories from gauges to steering wheel.

Aftermarket steering wheels, gear levers, handbrakes and pedals provide better grip and enhance the interior appearance of your car. The short shifter allows for shorter shift to engage gear, thereby achieving faster, easier and more precise shifting.

Bucket seat supports and holds your body securely under any driving condition. Despite its light weight, it works very well to protect the driver.

Reverse sensor alerts the driver should he get too near objects when reversing.

Gauges makes your car look sportier and allows you to keep track of the oil pressure, temperature, battery voltage and vacuum.

15. Car grooming

Does your car still look dirty no matter how hard you scrub and polish it? Please allow the car grooming professionals to work their magic if DIY is not working for you. It is important to entrust your car to a reliable and professional car grooming company.

A basic grooming package typically consists of cleaning of the interior (dashboard, console & windscreen) and exterior (tyres, rims, body & windscreen) of the car. Cleaning of leather and fabric seats often require additional surcharges. A basic grooming package starts from around S$80.

Choosing the right petrol grade for your car

There is a common misconception that the higher the grade of the gasoline you pump, the faster your car speeds off.

Many drivers tend to make costly mistakes when it comes to the grade of petroleum they pump. The truth is, a higher petrol grade is not necessarily better for your car.

In fact, the recommended gasoline for most cars is regular octane. The owner’s manual is your best indicator on which grade to use. Using a higher octane gasoline than that will not make your car achieve better mileage, move faster, run cleaner or improve its operations in any way.

Premium gas costs roughly 30 cents more per litre as compared to the regular gas. This can accumulate to as much as S$702 in savings annually, based on a normal 1.6 litre car clocking an average mileage of 20,000km/year. Studies have shown that drivers are wasting hundreds of millions of dollars each year on higher grade gas than required.

It is only when your car engine knocks that you should switch to a higher octane gasoline. However, this happens only in rare instances. Some cars, such as sports cars and particular luxury cars do have higher compression engines. These cars might require premium gasoline to prevent knocking. Your best bet is to listen to your car’s engine. As long as it does not knock, you are using the correct gasoline grade.

What is Octane Rating?

By definition, octane is any isomeric saturated hydrocarbon found in petroleum and used as a fuel and solvent. The higher the rating, the slower the burn when ignited during the compression burn cycle of the piston. The higher octane allows for more control of burning for higher compression engines. Thus, you will want to ensure that the octane rating of the gasoline correlates to the engine design, for complete burning of the gasoline by the engine in order to maximum fuel economy and clean emission.

Majority of cars are made to burn regular unleaded fuel with an octane rating of 95. Should the car need a higher octane rating, there will be an indication in the owner’s manual and perhaps under the fuel gauge and by the fuel fill hole. As mentioned above, only high performance engines require higher octane gas.

Does higher octane gasoline contain more cleaning additive which will be better for my engine?

Unfortunately, this is not the case. Government regulations call for almost the same amount of additives in all gasoline to clean the injectors and valves. Regular octane gasoline does not compromise in preventing engine deposits from forming, in getting rid of them, or in cleaning your car’s engine, as compared to higher octane gasoline.

When should you switch to a higher octane gasoline?

In rare cases, car engines may knock even when you use the recommended octane. Should this happen, you should switch to the next highest octane grade. Usually, switching to the mid-grade or premium-grade gasoline will remove the knock. If the knocking persists after one or two fill-ups, your car may need a tune-up or some other repair. Thereafter, you should revert back to the lowest octane grade which was recommended in the user’s manual, or at which your engine runs without the knock.


What if I choose to use gasoline with higher octane ratings?

For starters, you will be making the gasoline manufacturers a lot richer than they already are. That aside, using a higher octane fuel than necessary will send unburned fuel into the emission system. This will also be collected in the catalytic converter. Should you overwork any system, it can breakdown or under perform. An early sign of such a predicament is a rotten egg smell from the tailpipe. Do not get a panic attack. Simply switch back to using a lower octane gasoline and viola! The strange odor usually vanishes after several tanks of gasoline.

Finally, is knocking harmful?

Occasional light knocking will not harm your engine. Neither does it harm your engine. However, do not turn a blind eye to severe knocking. A heavy or persistent knock can lead to engine damage.

Who says knowledge is power? Knowledge is power…and saving money!

Conversion of foreign driving licence

Should you convert?

As a foreigner with a foreign driving licence, you are not required to convert your foreign driving licence to a local one if you are to be in Singapore for less than twelve months. You are allowed to drive in Singapore with a valid foreign driving licence. However, if your licence is not in English, it is compulsory for you to possess a valid foreign driving licence and get an International Driving Permit. If an International Driving Permit is unavailable, it is mandatory for you to get an official translation of your driving licence in English.

You should convert your foreign driving licence to a local version within twelve months if you possess an Employment Pass / Student Pass / Dependent Pass / Work Permit and intend to remain and drive in Singapore for more than twelve months.

How to convert?

You will need to pass the Basic Theory Test (BTT) to convert from a foreign driving licence to a Singapore driving licence. The BTT will inform you of Singapore’s Highway Code, relevant to traffic related issues unique to Singapore and other local traffic rules.

More information on Conversion

To convert to a Singapore driving licence, you are required to pass the Basic Theory Test (BTT) which will familarise you with traffic rules and Singapore's Highway Code pertaining to traffic related issues peculiar to Singapore. A Singapore Permanent Resident (PR) who wishes to drive in Singapore is required to convert his foreign driving licence after becoming a PR.

Am i allowed to do the conversion?

Application for conversion of foreign driving licence for Singaporeans and PR are not normally granted unless:
• They have stayed in the foreign country continuously for at least six months after the date of first issue of their foreign driving licence
• The foreign driving licence at the time of application for conversion must have been issued for a period of six months or more

Where to go for conversion of licence?

Your application for conversion of driving licence must be made in person at any of the following driving test centre:
• Singapore Driving Test Centre 3, Ang Mio Kio, St 62
• Bukit Batok Driving Centre 815, Bukit Batok West Ave 5
• Comfort Driving Centre 215, Ubi Ave 4

What documents to bring along?

Please bring along the following documents:
• Result slip to prove that you have passed the Basic Theory Test
• Passport and NRIC/Entry Permit/Employment Pass/Dependent Pass/Social Visit Pass/Work Permit, etc (whichever is applicable)
• A passport-size colour photograph with white background
• A matt/semi-matt finish and a fee of $50
• For overseas students, please produce proof of six months' stay in the country e.g. educational transcripts or Letter of Acceptance into the Educational Institution (120) and the relevant visa in the passport
• For those employed overseas, please produce Letter of Employment or Income Tax Returns or supportive documents from employers and the relevant Employment Pass in the passport
• A valid Qualified Foreign Driving Licence
• An official translation of the driving licence if it is not in English
• Extract of Driving Licence from the Licensing Authority that indicates the date of first issue of Driving Licence if this date of issue is not indicated on your driving licence
• For Malaysian licence holders, an extract from Jabatan Pengangutan Jalan (JPJ) is compulsory

Off Peak Car - Know the rules, know the benefits.

Challenged with rising fuel costs, higher taxes and levies on automobiles, local motorists are given a choice to register their spanking new vehicles under the off-peak car (OPC) scheme. Many have avoided the OPC scheme, even reviled it. But the OPC scheme may be a blessing in disguise…

Many people aspire to own a car. Most covert their next door neighbor’s new Honda Stream RS-Z while frowning at the Vios in their own carpark lot. But there is always the alternative scheme to owning a car: The Off-Peak Car scheme.

To say the least, a lot of Singaporeans do not have a comprehensive understanding of the OPC scheme. The general consensus is that people who sign for an off peak are lowly paid or struggling financially. Nothing could be further from the truth.

The OPC scheme replaced the weekend car scheme in 1994. The main aims of this scheme was to offer new and existing car owners the option to save on car registration and road taxes in return for reduced usage of the car. When one signs for a vehicle under the OPC scheme, one receives a $17,000 rebate offset against the quota premium and the Additional Registration Fee (ARF). One also receives a flat discount of $800 on annual road tax, subject to a minimum road tax payment of $50 per year.

Not only that, the owner is forced to plan his schedules carefully, as he does not always have the car available. So he might commute to work on the train or bus, but take the car out at night and on the weekends to ferry his partner on shopping trips.

As a result, he spends less on public parking and petrol as well. There is also a growing trend of higher end vehicles being registered under the OPC scheme not because their owners cannot afford it, but because it is so much cheaper to maintain one if the owner does not need the car on a daily basis.

That may sound well and good, but what are its usage limitations?

Well, for one, a driver can only drive his OPC registered vehicle at the following time slots: Monday to Friday, 7pm-7am, and from 3pm onwards on Saturdays & Eve of the major public holidays such as: The New Year, Lunar New Year, Hari Raya Puasa, Deepavali and Christmas. The OPC registered vehicle is permitted by the authorities to be driven on the whole of Sunday.

So, does it mean that an OPC registered vehicle is not permitted to drive on the roads on regular days even in case of an emergency?

Of course not. If an emergency should crop up (e.g. the wife goes into labor), all one simply has to do is purchase a $20 day license from any Singapore Post Office, the Automobile Association of Singapore (336 River Valley Road or 2 Kung Chong Road) or the Land Transport Authority( 10 Sin Ming Drive). Peel accordingly, and slap it on the left hand side of your windscreen.

So can I convert my current car to an OPC, or vice versa?

Let’s start with converting a normal car to an OPC. One has to go straight to the Land Transport Authority (LTA). The owner forks out $100 as the conversion fee. Unfortunately, in this case, there is no entitlement to any PARF or COE rebate.

The owner, however, gets $800 discount on annual road tax, subject to a minimum road tax payment of $50 per year (as mentioned earlier). There is an additional PARF rebate on top of the existing PARF value should the owner de-register the vehicle before 10 years is up.

Additional PARF rebate is calculated as follows:

Remaining life of vehicle (in months) x ($2,200 x12)

Let’s use an example: Wendy converts her car (purchased under the normal scheme) into an OPC on 1st December 2006. She plans to de-register it on 23 Jan 2009. She is entitled to an additional PARF rebate as calculated below:

1st Dec 2006 to 31st Dec 2008 = 25 months

1st Jan 2009 to 23 Jan 2009 = 23 days or 0.76 months (23 days divided by 30 days)

Therefore, the total number of months during which the car is converted into an OPC is 25.76. The additional PARF rebate (on top of her existing PARF value) will be:

25.76 x ($2,200/12 months) = $4,722.66

Basically, Wendy does not receive the $17K COE rebate if she converts her normal car into an OPC. The additional PARF rebate is not manifested into cash during the conversion, but only when Wendy de-registers her car 10 years later. Moreover, the existing monthly installments Wendy forks out for her car remains the same since this conversion to OPC is between her and LTA and does not involve her financial institution.

Now, let’s look at John who tries to convert his OPC into a normal car. One has to go straight to the Land Transport Authority (LTA). John forks out $100 as the conversion fee, and he also has to cough up the $17K rebate he received when he purchased his OPC. The formula for the top up rate is as follows:

$17,000 x (120 months – no. of months that has passed at the point of conversion)/120 months

The top up amount is apportioned to the COE and ARF value which is calculated as follows:

Car registered on 1st June 2005 as an OPC.

COE= $14,000

ARF = $22,000

Because the car is registered as an OPC, the $17K rebate will be used to offset the COE first, then the ARF.

So:

COE=$0

ARF= $22,000 – ($17,000-$14,000) = $19,000

John’s OPC is now converted to a normal car on 20 Jan 2007. The period which the car was registered as an OPC is as follows:

1st June 2005 – 31 Dec 2006 = 19 Months

1st January 2007 – 20th January 2007 = 20 days or 0.67 months (20 divided by 30 says)

Therefore the total no. of months which the car was registered as an OPC is 19.67 months. John has to top up the following amount to convert the OPC to a normal car:

$17,000 x (120 months -19.67 months)/120 months = $14,213

This top up amount is apportioned to the COE and ARF according to the following:

COE = $14,000/$17,000 x $14,213 = $11,704.82

ARF = $ 3,000/$17,000 X $14,213 = $2,508.18

Hence, when John de-registers his car, the COE amount will be $11,704.82. The ARF amount will be $21,508.18($19,000+$2,508.18).

The problem with the 2nd option is John has to pay LTA the top-up amount by hook or by crook.

So at the end of the day, is an OPC really worth it?

We’ve calculated the sums, ultimately, the decision is still up to the individual. An OPC may seem like a godsend to those who need a car on the weekends or to impress a date, but its limitations will not find favor with everyone.

A piece of advice is, if you want to avoid the hassle of conversions, simply stick with one scheme (OPR or normal) and leave it as it is.

Road Test - Nissan Teana 250XV

Choosing between the common Japanese range of executive-class sedans may not be easy. But now, there's a newcomer. And it is pretty impressive.

Just the other day in the middle of the afternoon, I was seated comfortably and watching the world go by. As I sipped my coffee, I noticed for the third time this middle-aged, bespectacled man squinting curiously in my direction and every time I turned, he’d pretend to look away. For some reason, he didn’t look very pleased either and I was wondering what on earth he was looking at.

And then it struck me. You see, here I was looking relaxed and absolutely nonchalant, considering the fact that I was driving the new Nissan Teana 250XV and not a Nissan GT-R. He was in a Cefiro. And apart from the fact that a newer model would draw attention, it’s also supposed to be an “uncle’s car” and most other males around my age wouldn’t want to be caught dead in any car that’s associated with “uncles”. So it was only natural for him to look slightly befuddled; maybe he was wondering why the new Teana wasn’t being driven by a guy like him. But I really couldn’t be arsed.

Speaking of which, that lower bit of my body had cool air blowing at it. And, further up along my seat, my back was being chilled as well. There was plenty of legroom in the foot well and visibility from the driving position was good. The layout on the centre console was neat and pretty intuitive, and on the whole, I couldn’t really think of anything to complain about.

A 2.5-litre VQ25DE V6 resides under its bonnet, producing up to 182 hp at 6,000 rpm and a decent 228 Nm of torque. Despite those figures, it isn’t what we would call “quick” and a zero-to-hundred sprint is finished in a slightly disappointing 9.6 seconds. Well, at least it revs smoothly.

But who cares about the acceleration? It’s not Golf GTI fast, but 9.6 seconds is still better than most normal cars on the road, and it isn’t as if it’s crucial for anyone to always get from standstill to 100 km/h in a short time, the Teana really doesn’t give a crap about that sort of thing.

Comfort first

What it is concerned about is whether the passengers are comfortable and always happy to coast around in it. And we’re pleased to say, it has definitely nailed it, spot on. Nissan combined their newly-developed “D” platform (also found in the Renault Laguna) and suspension system with the aim of providing a higher class of comfort. The front shock absorbers have built-in rebound springs while its rear gets a newly-developed multi-link suspension and with its dampers placed closer to the tyres, all with the aim of improving driving stability.

On a highway, the Teana rides with a planted feel and with barely a hint of floating sensation. It’s one of those cars you could drive up to Kuala Lumpur in, with your kids fast asleep in the back instead of driving you nuts with “are we there yet?”

Its handling, however, won’t meet the expectations of any Fairlady driver. The steering is rather numb and, while it functions perfectly well to turn the car, it won’t evoke thoughts of pin-sharp precision handling and charging into corners with super-late braking. But again, you see, that really isn’t what the Teana is for.